Hoi An Lives with Tourism Pains

By Sutthida Malikaew

HOI AN, Vietnam -  “More people come to Hoi An, but I can sell less,”  Kim Chi, owner of an art gallery in this central Vietnamese town,  says in a bored tone.

   Chi’s gallery, which she inherited from her father, has been in  business for the last 12 years. Most of its artwork was collected  from artists across Vietnam, as well as from her brother, an artist  based in Ho Chi Minh City.

   Chi, in her early 50s, says that up to the time Hoi An was named  a World Heritage City by UNESCO in 1999, her business was doing very  well because there was less competition. Now there are almost 200  galleries in this very small city, making competition stiff and  business difficult. But even so, she is happy to live in a World  Heritage City because it has improved her economic status. Part of  the reason is that she owns the building that houses the gallery,  unlike many other businesses which have to rent space for about one  million dong a month (62 U.S. dollars).

Another gallery owner, 30 year-old Toan, also gathers paintings from  all over the country. Her artist husband also paints many of the  pictures on display. Though Toan also owns her property, she still  faces difficulties because of the increased competition. “It is true  that more people drop in, but they don’t buy. I don’t know why,”  laments Toan.

But Toan is an optimistic person. She sees opportunities even in this  bleak climate. Toan opens her gallery everyday, hoping for that  elusive sale. But dedication to work also means less time to travel  around with her husband.

Art galleries are a good indicator of a city’s tourism industry.  Galleries have flourished in this ancient city of Hoi An since its  inclusion in the World Heritage list in 1999. The listing brought in  more tourism and more business opportunities which suit the  Vietnamese lifestyle.

TRADING HUB

Hoi An used to be a major trading hub in South-east Asia between the  15th and 19th centuries, when it was known as Faifo. It was an  international port where ships came in to exchange commodities  between the East and West.  Many merchants from China, Japan,  Portugal, Netherlands and Italy came to Hoi An on business. This  splendid legacy is still intact in Hoi An in its harmonious  combination of Chinese, Vietnamese and Japanese architecture.

The combination of local industriousness and international trade  turned local people into good businessmen, able to adapt to the  shifting business climate. Even today, locals swiftly change their  original occupation to sell souvenirs in order to take advantage of  the tourism business. That is the reason why, in the last seven  years, galleries and lantern shops have sprouted like mushrooms in  the last seven years.

Even quick-service tailor shops have been proliferating, charging on  average 250-300 U.S. dollars for a business suit, 50 to 70 dollars  for ladies’ dress, and 10 to 25 for trousers and skirts – all  delivered within three to four hours.

Aside from buying souvenirs and artwork, locals have also explored  service jobs in the tourism sector, learning a foreign language and  becoming tourist guides. Take the example of Chinh, a native of Hoi  An in his late 40s, who resigned his job as an English teacher to  become a tourist guide to cater to the growing tourist arrivals.

The average salary of a teacher is about one million dong (62  dollars), but the income of a tourist guide depends on the language  he or she speaks. A German language guide makes the most in salaries  among tour guides, making as much 300 dollars a month. An English- language guide makes around 200 dollars a month. Tips and other  commissions bring in extra. No wonder that being a tour guide is  considered a lucrative profession for young people.

Such new job opportunities are luring local youth to come back to  stay in their own city. That is a departure from the past when many  ambitious youth ventured elsewhere for education and jobs.

Says Thao, a receptionist at a local hotel: “The positive point in  being a World Heritage City is that the young people are coming back  after graduating because jobs were available here.” Many of these  jobs are in the hotel and tourism industry. An employee in a four- star hotel can easily make up to 200 dollars a month, she adds. As  for herself, Thao, who works in a three-star hotel, makes between 75  and 100 dollars, enough to cover her personal expenses, only because  she lives in her parents’ house and does not have to pay rent.

Asked if tourism has made a noticeable difference in the city, Thao  sighs: “For ordinary people I think they still have the same way of  living. But the rich have gotten richer, and the poor have become  poorer.”  She noted that rich people are investing heavily in hotels  and resorts. There are 70 hotels in Hoi An alone, owned mostly by  investors from Ho Chi Minh city, Danang or from foreign countries.

Tourism is a double-edged sword, bringing much needed economic  activity but also pitfalls like prostitution. Thao particularly  dislikes the sight of young Vietnamese women hanging around with  foreign men. While some of these women married the foreign men, it  has also caused some local women to divorce their husbands to be with  their foreign lovers.

Another ill brought about by tourism is the constant horde of  hagglers who follows and harass tourists to buy their stuff. “Some  tourists have to wear T-shirts that say ‘No…’ this and that so that  those vendors won’t follow them. Also, too many goods are hung at  storefronts, obscuring the view of local architecture, which the  tourists want to see. They don’t want to do shopping all the time… Already the city seems to have turned into a tailor-shop city,”  complains Thao.
Thao’s complaints unfortunately ring true. While local entrepreneurs  strive to sell souvenirs and trinkets to tourists, most of them  forget that many tourists come here in the first place to see the  famous fusion of local and foreign culture embodied in the city’s  architecture. Fortunately, the local government of Hoi An has  realised this and have tried to maintain a balance between promoting  tourism and preserving culture. (END/IOM/SM/SP/06)

*Sutthida Malikaew, who contributes to Prachatai.com, wrote this  story under an assignment under the Imaging Our Mekong media  fellowship programme (www.newsmekong.org)
 

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